Douro River Cruise on CroisiEurope's Ms Gil Eanes
Pre-trip Preparation
We were originally planning a trip to visit Paris and London in 2024; however, the travel agency in our small town wasn't that informed and she directed us to a company that would have cost us over $10K CAD, without including the flight cost. 5 days in London and 5 days in Paris plus a train ride. We then realized the Olympics would be in Paris that year and the huge crowds could be even higher than normal. We came upon the idea to go to Portugal instead after hearing good things about it from friends and family. In June of 2023, we ended up chosing a trip through Wingbuddy.com that offered a package of 2 nights in Lisbon, 5 nights on a river cruise on the Douro with CroisiEurope from Porto, and one last night in Porto.
The reason we chose to go with Wingbuddy and not book it all ourselves is that my husband was nervous about landing in a foreign country, not knowing the language, and having to find our way to the hotels etc. on our own. I later priced it out separately and we paid about $1000 CAD for Wingbuddy to do the planning and transportation arrangements for us. At the time of booking, we felt this was worth it. Looking back, however, I think we could have done it ourselves with more control and flexibility built in. But, that's the learning curve when you do new things, right?
Upgrading to Club Class on Air Transat
With Wingbuddy, the entire package would have cost us $8274 CAD for both of us to take the trip to Portugal including flights, transports, hotels and excursions. However, we decided to upgrade to Club Class on Air Transat. It's not first class; it's premium economy. In that, it offers priority baggage and boarding, wider seats, more leg room, ample food and beverages during the flight using glass glasses and ceramic plates, and a bathroom and cabin attendant limited to the 12 seats up front. They didn't have Club Class available at the time we booked with Wingbuddy, so we had to go with Club Flex instead. Club Flex is the same but also offers free changes and cancellations but costs about $100 to $200 more per flight than straight Club Class. The total upgrade cost us an aditional $2069 CAD each, so our trip package cost us a total of $12,412 CAD. Adding a couple days of meals, the gratuities at the hotels, cruise and for the tours, I budgeted another $600 CAD, bringing the total cost of the trip to $13,000 CAD.
The Hotel Choice
Wingbuddy did not provide us with the name of the hotel nor our trip documents until less than a week prior to the flight out. That was a bit unnerving, in my opinion, but it all worked out well anyhow. We were booked at the Hotel Lisboa Principe for the first two days and the Tryp Porto for our last day. All in all, as advertised by Wingbuddy, these hotels were good 3 star hotels at pretty good locations. Small but clean rooms and could be considered close to the city attractions but only if you were willing to take public transportation or walk a little bit.
My Final Thoughts on Booking with Wingbuddy
I believe booking with Wingbuddy is for people who are comfortable with blindly handing over control of their trip to a third party. (Not for me, as it turns out...) Wingbuddy booked our flight through another tour company in Quebec and our transportations in Portugal with another third party, but I believe they booked our hotels and river boat cruise directly. If things go well, which indeed they did with us, I don't think there is an issue. However, if things do not go well, I believe there could be a problem. We could only directly communicate with Wingbuddy and not these third parties. As such, I believe the response for this could be hit or miss. Wingbuddy provided us with an emergency number that was compatible with WhatsApp. I chose to use it just once, during our bus ride from Lisboa to Porto when the bus driver chose not to stop for a bathroom break for over 3 hours of travel. The response to my text was about 20 minutes and the bus driver got a phone call telling him to stop. This was pretty "touch and go" for the passengers who had to use the restroom. Basically the issue was moot by this time as we were just 30 minutes away from the cruise boat by the time he stopped. The passengers were happy he had stopped.
Starting the Trip Off on the Right Foot
We chose to visit with my son and his wife in Kingston the evening before our flight from Montreal and then my son took us to the Train station the next morning. Because I am a nervous traveler, we chose a 10:50 AM train to Dorval and were at the airport about 4 hours before our flight. We first paid about $40 CAD for 2 waters, a very skimpy plastic package of cheese and meat and one sandwich because we couldn't check in until 3 hours before the flight and we were hungry. The airport was crowded (it was Friday) and uncomfortable. We decided to splurge and buy our way into the VIP lounge ($118 CAD with the 10% discount Transat Club Class offered). There we had a lovely hot meal, salads, desserts, etc, all the wine or beverages we wanted and a relaxed comfortable place to sit for the next 3 hours. The time flew by and we decided it was so well worth the splurge! I am actively looking into getting a credit card that offers free entry to these airport lounges. Even with the yearly fees, it might just be worth it if we travel by air more than once a year.
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| Happy travelers in the National Bank VIP Lounge in Montreal Aiport |
Getting the Lisboa City Card
I bought the Lisboa City Card through Expedia.ca the week before we left because I knew this was a trusted company and if I had issues with getting the card, I could deal with it in English when I came back to Canada. The price of $129.14 CAD for two, 2 day cards, was pretty much what I could have gotten when buying it in Lisboa directly, €88 total (or €44 each). We picked up the physical card at the airport really quickly by showing our voucher Expedia emailed me.
I had researched this and it paid off because this was a really convenient way to see the city in such a short amount of time. It included fast track entry to many of the museums and attractions in the city, as well as use of any city bus, metro and train. We had to sign the cards and write down the date and time of their first usage. The first usage activated them; so in our case, it was when we took our first bus ride.
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| We used a card protector my son gave us so that our Lisboa cards didn't get damaged over the two days of usage. It worked well and, conveniently, we didn't have to remove them from this case to tap in the electronic machines to use them in the attractions and the transportation systems. Note that when you use the cards at the metros, you need to tap in to open the gates to get to the trains and again tap out to open the gates to get out of the stations. |
Getting Data on an E-Sim
We couldn't go to every place I had planned because we just didn't have the time nor the energy, but we saw what we wanted to see and really enjoyed it. I planned the itineraries using Google Maps to make sure I hit the places to see in logical order. We, of course got lost a bit, and added quite a few steps to the trip, but it all worked out fine in the end. We were pretty happy to have gotten the Airalo data esim card for $19 USD for 15 days with 30 gigabytes. It offered more than sufficient data for our trip and gave us the peace of mind that we were always connected. We downloaded it onto Bruce's phone before we left and he activated it once we got there. I just used the bluetooth on my phone to link to his account. We used it a lot and still had plenty of data left over by the end of the trip.
Transfer from Airport to the Hotel Lisboa Principe
We were met at the airport by the Wingbuddy representative. There were quite a lot of people on the flight from Montreal and we had to wait for them. This gave me plenty of time to pick up my Lisboa Card from the "Ask Me Lisboa" kiosk located in the arrivals area. This was very easy and I lucked in because there was only one person ahead of me. While I did this, Bruce exchanged our information with the Wingbuddy representative and got a printed itinerary with dates and times of our included transportations. We took a big bus to the Hotel that was pretty comfortable, albeit, the seats were narrow. There was a first stop at the hotel where some people where staying and then the stop at our hotel. The desk clerks scanned our passports and let us store our luggage in the bar until 3 PM when our rooms would be ready. It all went quite smoothly. We had to pay €2 euros each per night for hotel fees for the two nights.
Day 1 Itinerary in the Alfama District
The Castelo de São Jorge is closed on Sundays, so this is why we chose the Alfama district today. Many museums are also closed on Mondays, so it pays to do a bit of research before planning the excursions.
1. After we got rid of our luggage, we took city bus to the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (National Tile Museum). Google had told us the bus number and the stop's name. Since each stop is shown on the screen inside the bus, it was very easy to know when to get off. The entry to the museum would have cost €8 Euros without the Lisboa Card. We were there by 11 AM and our Lisboa Card gave us free and fast track entry (although there was no line-up). I was happy to have learned to read Portuguese a bit because the details provided on the displays in Portuguese were better than the English versions. We learned a lot about where the tiles in Portugal originated, why they were called Azulejos, and the stories they told. Some of the collections dated back hundreds and hundres of years and others were very recent. This recent one was cute, so I took a photo of it to show off to my daughter-in-law who likes all things Disney.
2. We then walked to the Panteao Nacional (National Patheon). With a few false starts, we finally got there. There were a lot of hills and then a lot of stairs inside, but this building was remarkable. Again, free fast track entry with the Lisboa card. Still no line-up though... It would have been €8 Euros to get in. The Pantheon is the resting place for lot of the famous Portuguese people and the stone "coffins" were pretty cool. However, for us, it was the views of the areas in the neighbourhood that could be seen from the terrace of the Patheon that were so cool. We went up a lot of stairs to get there, but it was worth every step!
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| Panteoa Nacional Front View |
Throughout the city we saw these trees with purple flowers on them. So pretty to come in May! The weather was also perfect. Not too hot and not too cold with just minor rain that didn't really affect us much at all.
4. We walked to the Elevador de Santa Justa (Santa Justa Lift), then to Praça do Rossio (Rossio Square), Avenida da Liberdade, Pink street, and the Praça do Comércio before calling it a day and headed back home to the hotel. We chose not to go up the Santa Justa lift due to the long line up, but it was free with our Lisboa card. That would have been €5.30 euros otherwise. By then the jet lag had caught up with us and we just couldn't do it any more. It was an easy ride on the metro back to the hotel using the Azul (blue) line back to the São Sebastião station. We were at the hotel and checked into our room by 3:30 PM.
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| Selfie in front of Santa Justa Elevator. |
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| Selfie in front of Fountain in Rossio Square |
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| The tile pattern in Rossio Square |
Our First Supper in Lisboa
The front desk clerk at the hotel recommended a local restaurant called the Colina that turned out to be very good. It was about a block away from the hotel and was open for an earlier meal than the normal Portuguese restaurants that normally open only after 7:30 PM. We were so tired and wanted to go to bed early, so we took a chance and went there. They were celebrating their 52nd aniversary; so that is pretty cool in itself, that they'd been open that long. They gave us a free glass of bubbly wine at the end of our meal as a celebratory drink. Bruce and I ordered a steak and a mixed meat skewer respectively and both found the flavour and quality of the food was good. The prices seemed very fair as well as the meal totalled about €48 euros. We liked that we could order a small 500 ml bottle of wine to share instead of a big bottle. (Note that our tolerance for wine at dinner increased during this trip to a full bottle per meal...)
Even though we didn't use the Lisboa Card to it's fullest that first day and we ran out of steam before hitting all the attractions I had planned to see in the Alfama district, the cost of the day 1 excursions using the Lisboa card was still well worth it.
Half cost of Lisboa Card in Euros = €22 each or €44 total for day 1.
If we'd have paid out of pocket it would have been:
€1.80 each for the bus
€8 to get in National Tile Museum
€8 to get in the National Panteon
€15 to get in S. Jorges Castle
€1.8 each for metro
= €34.60 each or €69.20 total. We saved over €25.20 euros on day 1 by getting the Lisboa Card. (It was a win!)
Day 2 Itinerary in the Belém District
We were feeling a lot more refreshed on day 2 and hit the delicious free breakfast at the hotel. In addition to the eggs, cheeses and meats as well as excellent coffee, we took advantage of tasting the Pastéis de Nata (Egg custard tarts) offered. We planned on doing a taste test of the ones at the famous Pastéis de Belém (made with the secret recipe from the Jeronimos priests) and the other famous Pastéis de Nata at the Manteigaria made at the Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata (Factory) to see how each recipe tasted. This became our starting point. (Needless to say, I put aside my low carb diet for this trip; for scientific purposes, of course.) The one at the hotel was served cold but had a lovely texture and crispy crust. Very, very good, considering our limited experience with them. I was able to control myself and only eat half of it.
1. We expertly took the metro from São Sebastião station next to our hotel to Rossio Square on the blue line and took the green line to Cais do Sodré. We were feeling like Lisboa transit experts by now! From here we took the train that heads to Cascais and got off at the Algés stop. (I think Google had it wrong and it probably would have been closer to get off at the Belém stop.) Anyhow, we had lots of energy and walked along the coastal path to the Belém Tower.
We walked past the Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar (Monument to the Overseas Combatants) but didn't go in. It's a monument for those who lost their lives in the wars and is guarded by soldiers.
The views from the top were amazing and we ended up seeing how to easily get to the Jerónimos Monastery using the pedestrian tunnel under the street. That was to be our next stop.
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| Selfie from the top of the Padrao dos Descbnrimentos |
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| We took photos from all sides of the monument. |
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| This is a good view of the Jerónimos Monastery from atop the Padrao dos Descbnrimentos |
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| We can see the Belem Tower from the top of the monument. |
4. Our next stop was at the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery). The line up was crazy, but luckily with the Lisboa card we got to skip the "buying a ticket" line and went straight into the entry line. This took about 30 minutes to get through, so it wasn't as bad as what we thought it would be. Well worth the wait, in our opinion. Getting the Lisboa card just for this place alone was a win to us!
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| There was a mass going on, so we didn't go into the church part of the monastery. |
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| The carvings at every archway were so amazing. We took our time to really explore the different scenes carved into the stone. Each one was unique; or so it seemed to me. |
6. We then went to the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum). We spent a lot of time here as it was facinating to see all the coaches from such an early time frame. Some were hundreds of years old and others from the 19th century. Some were restored while others were deteriorating due to age. All had stories with them written in Portuguese but also in English. Between reading the two, I was able to understand a lot about these coaches and the history of Portugal.
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| This one had been fixed up, I was surprised at the amount of gold used on so many of the carriages. |
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| These were for the children of the royalty. Mini versions of what their parents owned. |
7. Since we were feeling so energetic that day, we took the train back to the Cais do Sodré station and walked around the Praça do Comércio to see some of the things we'd missed the day before. The Arco da rua Augusta is just at the top of the square.
We went up the narrow stairs of the Arco da Rua Augusta, which was free with the Lisboa card. They had a light signaling when you could go up or down because there was only room from one person at a time.
We walked along Pink Street and then to the Time Out Market. Our intent was to have supper at the Time Out Market, but it was crazy busy and there were no seats available.
It started raining when we were at the Praça do Comércio and since it was only 3 PM, there were no restaurants open that we wanted to eat at. We then noticed the Lisboa Story Center was opened. The day before we had planned on going there, but we thought it was just an Information Center and didn't realize it was the actual museum entrance. It was free with the Lisboa card and there was no line-up. They gave us headphones and we went through a series of short films interspaced with mockups that gave us the story of Lisboa, it's discoveries and of the major earthquake that destroyed the city in the 1700s. It took a little over an hour and it was a great way to learn more about Portugal. By the time we were done, it was sunny out again.
Afterwards, we walked around until we came to a restaurant that looked authentically Portuguese. Unfortunately, it was a tourist trap and we should have listened to our instrincts but we were tired and hungry. We ordered a Francesinha and an apple cider. It wasn't bad but it wasn't quality meats nor quality bread. The beef was tough, and the bread was store bought sandwich bread... So the experience left us a little bit flat.
We expertly took the metro back to the hotel and were back by 8 PM or so. Our heads hit the pillow immediately and we slept like babies.
Once again, to determine if buying the Lisboa Card was worth it for the second day, I determined how much it would have cost us without it.
Half cost of Lisboa Card in Euros = €22 each or €44 total for day 2.
If we'd have paid out of pocket it would have been:
€1.80 each for the metro
€2.30 each for train from Cais de Sodre to Belem
€10 to go up Padrao Dos Descobrimentos
€12 to get in the Jeronimos Monastery
€4 to get into the National Coach Museum
€2.30 each for train from Belem to Cais de Sodre
€4.50 for Rua Augusta Arch tickets
€7.50 to get into the Lisboa Story Center
€1.8 each for metro
= €46.20 each or €92.40 total. We saved over €48.40 euros on day 2 by getting the Lisboa Card.
Conclusion: Get the Lisboa Card if you are going to see some of the things we saw. Note there are many more places we just didn't have time to see, so research it and put together an itinerary that works for you.
For us, we saved €73.60 Euros and had a great time. We didn't feel the need for a structured tour but it took a bit of planning ahead of time to make sure we saw the attractions in the proper order.
Our Douro River Boat Cruise
Our five nights spent on CroisiEurope's Ms Gil Eanes was, so far, the best vacation I've ever had. I enjoyed the intimacy of the small ship and it was fun meeting other like minded passengers. I felt I really got to know important bits of Portugal on the daily excursions, even though we were back on board, for the most part, by lunchtime. It was nice to enjoy the relaxing river boat ride all afternoon taking in the majestic views along the Douro. All the crew seemed to go that extra step to make sure our unique requirements were met. The coffee and drinks were plentiful and served all day long. The meals were often a version of the local dishes; however, if you didn't like it, they'd happily substitute it for something you liked. They had entertainment at night, sometimes with local dancers or singers, but we mostly missed that as the fresh air from being on the sun deck all afternoon got the better of us and we were in bed by ten. I think five nights was the perfect amount of time to spend on the boat; we were never bored and we felt fulfilled at the end.
Our Tranfer from Lisboa to Porto
We were able to have a leisurly breakfast at the hotel in Lisboa before our transfer bus showed up. We checked out at 10:45 and the bus showed up just a bit late due to the high volume of traffic. There were two hotels to pick up at, and ours was the first. It took a while to get to the other hotel due to the traffic. I noticed the bus had internet so I asked our guide for the password and she gave it to me. Not everyone on the bus heard, so I was one of the few with internet access. (I would have still had access through the Airalo esim anyhow.) Once the next hotel guests were on board, our guide left the bus and the bus driver drove us to Porto. Unfortunately, the bus toilet was kept locked and he didn't stop for a restroom break until we'd been on the road for over 3 hours. Some of the passengers were getting angry so I sent a note about it to Wingbuddy on the emergency number they had given me giving them a rundown of the situation. There was a call to the driver and he did stop about 20 minutes after I'd sent the note. I was the hero of the trip for this but I think the true hero was the person who'd went up to the driver several times asking for him to stop. Quite honestly, this was the only glitch of the trip and I didn't have to pee yet, so overall, my trip was perfect.
Embarkation
We got to the river boat around 3:30 PM, which was a bit later than expected. Because of this, I think they let us board and sit in the lounge until our room was ready. They brought our luggage from the bus for us and put it into our rooms. We gave them our boarding voucher and our passports so they could scan them. It wasn't long before they announced that we were allowed into our cabins. The beverages were already free flowing in the lounge. There were three boats linked together. Ours was the middle boat, so the view out our cabin window at the time, was another boat's cabin. We just shut our curtains...
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| View of the bridge designed by Gustar Eiffel seen from the bow of our ship |
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| We found two twin beds instead of a double bed, but we decided we could move around the beds in the small room better with two beds rather than one up against the wall. So we didn't get them to change it. |
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| The bathroom was clean, smelled good and the shower was a decent size. |
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| The closet was big too, with 20 hangers, and there was a small desk. We moved the stool next to the window because it was in the way when accessing the closet. |
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| The TV came down at the touch of a button. We only watched it to know the itinerary and menus for the day. It was very nice to look at the views while lying on the bed (Once the boat was underway, that is. LOL!) |
The Excursions
We went on the excursions in the morning but sailed down the Douro River in the afternoons. So much to see, such beautiful countryside. My goal was to see ancient European Castles and churches on this trip and I was not disappointed. I couldn't keep track of all the castles and churches we saw! All were amazing. Some of these buildings were even still used today. It was great to have the guide explain everything on the Vox thingies we got that came with headphones. I'd only learned on the last day that the Air Transat headphones fit in these and they were more comfortable. This is a good to know thing for next time.
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| It was hard to take in all the features during the tours because all the walls, floors, ceiling, windows, doors and furniture were amazing. |
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| It was amazing to see buildings that were hundreds of years old. One place we saw was over 1000 years old. |
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| I thought our pool was a little lame, but I think it's pretty well used when the weather is really hot. We didn't use it this trip. The weather was perfect but not too hot! |
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| Ducking our heads as we go over the bridge. |
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| The trains went along the river through the mountains. I think it would be a very picturesque train ride. |
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| The trains also go through the mountains, not just around them. |
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| View of the sunrise or sunset from the lounge. I can't remember which. I just know it was beautiful. |
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| Night time view of the bridge lit up. |
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| View from my cabin window while docked. |
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| Paella for supper. Bruce had a veggie meal with the chicken from the paella. |
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| We sat for lunch and supper at the same table every day. Lilly and Frank (from Mississauga) Suzy and Bruce and Sally and John (From UK). |
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| They served a different wine every night; themed to our locations and excursions. This was the evening after we had seen the Mateus palace. The Mateus rose wine was a lot better than I remember it from when Mom and Dad drank it. By this time we'd been drinking 2 to 3 glasses of wine at all meals, so everything tasted good. |
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| This entire canyon was widened for boats by blasting away the rocks. The views were surreal. |
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| The views from the bus windows were just a nice as those from the river boat. |
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| Gardens at Mateus Palace |
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| These famous books are hundreds of years old. |
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| The pool in front of the Mateus Palace was put there to reflect the front of the palace. It worked, as you can see. |
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| Another view from the bus |
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| The new parts of the city blended into the old parts seamlessly. |
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| This was a little plaque on the wall. I'm not sure what it was, but it was so cool! |
After returning to the boat by 5:30 PM, we again took in the beautiful views and prepared for the Gala night.
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| Dressed up for the Gala night. I have to thank my sister for giving me my pretty dresses. They were exactly right for the occasion. |
ride included magnificent views again.
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| There was always lots of wine at the table as they accommodated all the different requests. |
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| We won a huge bottle of Mateus that we gladly allowed our new friend to keep; as we were on the same team. We just didn't want to add the weight to our suitcases. |
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| These women became our friends; Danielle and Micheline. |
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| The canopy was lowered as we went through the lock. |
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| This was at the winery |
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| These ceiling beams were hundreds of years old. |
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| The lemons on this tree were the size of grapefruits. We were told they were citrons, not lemons. (But isn't that lemon in French???) |
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| The porto portions were big and plentiful. |
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| You cannot begrudge a bus ride that offers these views all the way to your destination, can you? |
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| This was another small town we went to, on our way to the vineyard. |
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| Bruce spotted ceramic cats in this neighbourhood. These are old shells of acient homes that have been renovated. It's nice they keep the acient look. |
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| All the farmer's fields are sectioned off with these types of stone walls that are hundreds and hundreds of years old. We were imagining the amount of physical labour that was involved. |
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| More bus ride views! |
Conclusion
Go on a river boat cruise!
One Day in Porto
We transfered to our hotel in Porto around 10 AM. It was pretty seamless and although we couldn't check in yet, they scanned our passports and stored our luggage for us. Then we went exploring. This time it was Bruce who led the way and we just winged it. The weather was lovely and we had two goals for the day: 1. To see the famous McDonald's that was situated in an old bank building and 2. To get a better version of the Francesinha sandwich than what we'd had in Lisbon.
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| What an amazing example of the Portuguese tiles on this church. |
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| In front of the famous McDonalds |
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| Modern ordering screens with chandeliers, stained glass and copper wall panels. |
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| This McDonald's has chandeliers! |
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| The basement areas had a great staircase but was a bit more modern. |
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| The Francesinha parts are cooking on the grill and the bread is toasting on a paninni press thing. |
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| The restaurant is called the Bella Roma |
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| We asked for the sandwich to be cut in half because it's way too big for one person. But the cook gave us each a whole egg on top. |
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| This was the best sandwich ever. The gravey was amazing and the quality of the meat and bread was so much better than the sandwich we'd had in Lisbon. |
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| I took a photo of the place from the outside so I could share this in a review. It was an amazing experience. |
I don't even know what these buildings are, but they are so old and cool. I loved our unstructured walk around Porto.
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| We just thought it was cool that this family had their photo taken by integrating with the Porto letters. |
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| Seems like it's a thing; get your photo with the Porto letters. We didn't, but thought it was cool anyways. |
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| This was outside a posh watch store. |
We had supper at the restaurant the hotel clerks recommended. I can't remember the name of it, but we ordered excellent food and drank a full bottle of the Green Wine (Vinho Verde). It's made exclusively in Portugal and we'd had it on the ship. It's a white wine made with young grapes. It was a great way to end the trip.
The last morning came early and there were three vans taking us to the airport. The hotel provided us with a boxed lunch because it was too early for the breakfast but we didn't eat it. We got a coffee at the airport and a nice meal on the plane.
This was a wonderful vacation and I hope to have many more just like it.
Total cost of trip:
Cost of riverboat cruise with WingBuddy: $12,592 CAD, includes all transportation costs
Additional spending on trip: $878 CAD
Total Cost of trip: $13,470 CAD for 9 days or $748.33 CAD per person per day.
Fantastic narrative Suzy! What a wonderful trip!
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